Wednesday, 16 July 2003

Don't Mess With Texas

Texas

Well, I've been in Austin now for nearly two weeks enjoying the delights of yet another very laidback city and the capital of Texas. It's set in some beautiful, hilly countryside with lakes and golf courses galore, very reminiscent of the best parts of southern Spain but without the Union Jack swimming trunks or any lost and unconscious Celtic fans. To be honest, I haven't really done much except play golf, lie by the pool, swim, eat and drink a lot. Bummer, eh?

I'm only slightly ashamed at my lack of activity though. If I'd been writing up my journal it would have been a bit like that way you used to write diaries when you were young. You know the kind of thing...

Monday: Got up. Went to skool. Came home. Watched Blue Peter. Had tea. Went to bed.
Tuesday: Got up. Went to skool. Came home. Watched Scooby Doo. Had Campbell's meatballs for tea, yummy! (Sometimes you threw in a bit of exotic detail.) Went to bed.

...and so on. Or was that just me?

One think I did do however, was take a little trip down to San Antonio to see what's left of the famous Alamo. Now the phrase 'Don't Mess With Texas' started some years ago as an anti-litter campaign but is used often on t-shirts and bumper stickers as a statement of pride in the state. I was all ready to go down to The Alamo and have a good laugh at how the Mexican army severely "messed with Texas" back in 1836 but ended up being quite moved and impressed by how 189 men held off an army of 5,000 for nearly two weeks. The Alamo is stuck right in the middle of downtown San Antonio and although it was swarming with tourists, the letters to home from men who knew they were going to die removed any thought that this was a cheesy, over patriotic sideshow. What really struck me was how many Europeans, including Scots, were among the Alamo volunteers and it was slightly unsettling to note that a William Sutherland was among the fallen.

Texas reminds me a lot of Scotland. The people are very friendly and funny, although lacking the always attractive pale blueish skin tone of the natives at home, and Texas itself used to be a self governing Republic. The Alamo is their Culloden/Bannockburn/Braveheart all rolled into one minus the dodgy, "I love ye, cobber" Australian accent! You get the impression that Texans are not always happy with being part of a bigger country and would be quite content using their oil and agriculture economy to go it alone. Having said that, they know how to celebrate the 4th of July. Barbeques, parades and 100,000 people watching a massive concert and fireworks display in the local park.

One of the other things I considered doing while in Texas, was making a 400 mile round trip to Dallas to see the place where John F Kennedy was shot. A bit morbid perhaps, but a place of significant national importance in this country. When I mentioned to Keith's girlfriend Kathryn, that I was thinking of doing this she said,

"It's really not worth the journey. Dallas only has girls with big hair, big teeth and big breasts!"

My flight to Dallas the next morning was the earliest available...... no, just kidding. Was content to watch Victoria Principal strutting around Southfork on tv instead.

I'd actually seen Dealey Plaza, the place where Kennedy was shot, during my 24 hour train journey from St. Louis to Austin. The Amtrak station in Dallas is very close to the fateful site, so I got a good view as we pulled away. For you conspiracy theorists who want to see what the alleged lone gunman saw that day, click on to http://www.earthcam.com/jfk.

I can't imagine what 24 hours on a British Rail train must be like (although I'm sure some of you commuters can) but my trip was fairly luxurious. I didn't have a sleeping compartment but the train was a double decker and the seats were big and wide and reclined like the seats in the first class section of a plane (I've seen pictures). They also had a fairly neat dining car in which I imagined I was surrounded by a host of Orient Express murderers. The view could have been better though. Rather than the towering Alps or the French countryside, I had a couple of hundred miles of Arkansas (pronounced 'Arkansaw') swampland to look at.

Not much of a pancakes update to relay this time although I have been savouring the tasty breakfast tacos they have here in Austin. It's a small (yes, small!) omelette looking thing containing whatever ingredients you desire, all wrapped up in a flour tortilla. Wash it down with coffee and a few shots of tequila and you're all set for the day with the breakfast of champions!

Next week, I'm heading west across the deserts of New Mexico, Arizona and California although I'm not quite sure how I'm going to travel yet. I'm sure something will turn up. Before that however, I have six rounds of golf planned over the next four days with Keith and Bob, the guy I stayed with in Detroit, who just flew into town tonight. It's serious stuff with pride, honour, money, beer and perhaps a big shiny trophy at stake. Game on!

Finally, for those of you planning a visit to Disney World sometime in the future, here's something that caught my eye that might be of use. Read in the paper the other day that Christians in South Florida are reacting to the prohibition of prayer in public schools and the proliferation of sex and violence in popular culture by engaging in alternative pursuits such as working out at the newly opened, 'The Lord's Gym'. Bare midriffs and thong leotards are forbidden as are cussing (swearing) and chewing gum (presumably because it's difficult to do both at once) and the walls feature images of Jesus carrying the burden of the cross and Samson breaking free of his chains. I'm curious to find out whether these are workouts than can be re-enacted at The Lord's Gym but the article doesn't say.

Interestingly, there are also alternative Christian theme parks springing up, Lazarus like, including The Holy Land in Orlando. "Red Sea parted ten times a day" and "Buy 5 loaves, get 2 fishes free - it's a bloody miracle!" are how I would attract the non-believers. Anyway, something to think about including in your holiday schedule I'm sure.

Until next time...

Love, Neil x

P.S. Will definitely do Neil's Top Travel Tips For The USA in the next thrilling installment once I've endured the nights in Las Vegas and the days in Death Valley!!!

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